Are we pumped for SIHH 2018 yet? Just like the “holiday shopping season” and beginning around the same time, it seems like the new-product announcements get earlier every year. With still more than a month to go, the 2018 models that we will get to see in Geneva in January have already started coming in. The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) watch industry trade show, just like its organizing body the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), has continued to grow and evolve each year, adding more brands as well as a day where the show is open to the public for the first time in 2017 – this time around, it will be Friday, January 19th, 2018. Now with a total of 35 brands, SIHH 2018 promises even more variety than in previous years.
You already know that SIHH is one of the two most important events for the watch industry, as its exhibitors – while much fewer than at the biggest industry trade show, Baselworld – represent many major and influential brands, and this is the time of year when they introduce their most important new products. Vis-à-vis Baselworld – where around 300 brands represent the breadth of the watch industry from high-end and mainstream to obscure startups – SIHH has always carefully maintained an image of exclusivity and “prestige.”
So, while a few brands do introduce models in the “mid-level luxury” range that the average person might be able to consider saving up for and possibly actually wearing… you can expect a lot of skeletonization, avant-garde designs, artisanal techniques and haute horology finishing, “high complications,” precious materials, and stratospheric prices. Haute horlogerie is in the name, after all. It has largely been a spectator’s show for fans of high-end watchmaking, but with recent industry trends emphasizing more “down-to-earth” (it’s all relative) models, some balance and variety can at least be hoped for.
The power book of over 100 hours is displayed up around 2:30 – and we enjoy power reserve indicators, particularly on manually wound movements like this DW1105S. But alongside this, at around 10:30, you may observe the large double barrel that is available to also show you exactly how closely the mainspring is wound. Along with the balance wheel could be viewed twitching away at 3Hz (21,600bph) about 4:30, providing even more eye-candy animation.On top of that and the contemporary skeletonized motion, the improved gold palms appear to do a pretty good job of being legible and contrasting with the mainly brushed “black gold” (not oil) surfaces. The rose gold palms suit the DeWitt Academia Skeleton’s rose gold case that is 42.5mm broad and 10.25mm thick – that promises some wrist presence, but also to be quite wearable. On the case sides, black rubber forms what the firm calls “Dewitt imperial columns.” The DeWitt Academia Skeleton case is water resistant to 30m, no surprise there, along with the lug width is a less common 21mm – so you may have a bit more trouble finding a nato strap to match it.One of the reasons things such as tourbillons are so popular is that they not only exhibit the mechanical complexity that people so enjoy viewing, but they are highly animated. Just finding a means to display the balance wheel in the dial side is another way many watchmakers have added mechanical glow to a watch. Even just a sweeping seconds hand will do – animation of any kind adds a whole lot to a face. That is the reason why the windshield-wiper seconds, with its own stabbing and jerkily retracting motion every thirty seconds, is worth all the obviously necessary additional engineering. That combined with the DeWitt Academia Skeleton’s “openwork” movement provides a fantastic deal of horological amusement for a cost of $85,800.
SIHH 2018’s 35 Exhibiting Brands
The Richemont Group along with some independent brands long represented the handful of SIHH exhibitors. However, the show’s 2016 edition added a “Carré des Horlogers” section with nine “artisan-creators and independent workshops” and expanded that number in 2017. This year, the Carré des Horlogers brands are up to no fewer than 17, with the primary exhibitors (referred to as “Historic Maisons”) at 18 for a total, again, of 35. The primary exhibitors are joined by Hermes, and the Carré des Horlogers adds five brands with Armin Strom, DeWitt, Ferdinand Berthoud, Élégante by F.P.Journe, and Romain Gauthier. See the full list of exhibitors in the image above.
From a media perspective, Baselworld has tended to spread our resources very thinly in past years with simply too much to cover at once, so with some prominent brands having moved from Baselworld to SIHH, we can hope for some balance between the shows. Around 20,000 visitors are expected this year, and the FHH promises improved facilities and connectivity in order to make our job of bringing you high quality content more efficient – so we’ll see what that’s like in January. That’s just a glimpse into our point of view in preparing for the show.
We’ll continue providing news of new products ahead of the show – if mostly only renders and official product images from the brands with basic information before being able to see the watches in person to photograph and evaluate them in their glorious and gritty reality. SIHH 2018 runs from January 15th to the 19th, and again, the last day is open to the public with tickets on sale at the SIHH website. sihh.org